Friday, 9 December 2011

Grooming your Rabbit

Grooming your rabbit is very important especially if they are lionhead rabbits. Here are some tips about grooming your rabbit:


 SHEDDING

They shed every 3 months and sometimes they shed more hair then other times. You should always have a rabbit brush handy all year round.

rabbits are very critical cleaners similar to cats. But unlike cats they cannot cough up hairballs since they don't have the muscles to throw-up. If they end up having a large hair ball in their stomach disallowing them to eat so they end up starving themselves. If this were to happen, their stomach would  look very large.

Make sure to brush your bunny AT LEAST once a week to get rid of any of there loose fur. If your rabbit looses their whole coat in one day, make sure to brush or use your hands to get rid of a majority of the loose fur instead of them digesting all of the hair.

If you find bald spots on your bunny, DON'T PANIC! This  is completely normal and is commonly found angora rabbits. This type of rabbit looses all of its fur apart from the head and the feet during shedding. If you find a bald patch on your rabbit, it will grow back in a week or two. Give it time.






LONG HAIRED BUNNIES

As you may know, this type of rabbit is truly lovely to look at. The only problem, is that they require a lot more care then their shot haired cousins. I recommend that you use your best scissors and keep their nice hair trimmed to about an inch long. If you don't do this, then you may have to battle hairballs most of the time.
If you are uncomfortable with doing the above, you can always visit a vet to do these tasks.


FLEAS AND MITES

During you having your pet bunny, you may come across them having fleas or anything else. If this does happen, these are you options to get rid the fleas:

You can go into a pet shop or visit your vet for a medicine that you put on them and rub into their skin

OR

you can use a flea comb which is harmless to them and non-toxic. This takes more patients but still does the job good! As well as most rabbits love the attention of you using the flea comb on them and can be used as a supplement to your main flea-control program. 

MAKE SURE TO CHECK OVER THEIR FUR FOR ANYTHING AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK

BATHS

Most rabbits hate being in water, but you will get the odd rabbit that loves swimming in the pool. Even giving your rabbit the occasional bath can put them under a lot of stress. NEVER- unless your vet suggests it to bring down your rabbits fever-should you give your sick bunny a bath. Bunnies that seem healthy, may have undiagnosed problems. It is the best to avoid putting them under the stress of having a bath. 

If your rabbit has extremely bad fleas, there is a good chance he has already compromised and will go into major shock when getting a bath. There are many safe alternatives of avoiding a bath if your bunny has fleas. As well as a soaked rabbit takes AGES to dry. Spot cleaning the dirty area with an application of baby cornstarch (found in baby isle at local shop BUT AVOID talcum as it is carcinogenic) then gently combing out the dirt with a fine flea comb. This is much BETTER then a wet bath. 

If your rabbit is wet, he/she can quickly become hypothermic. IF for any reason your bunny is wet to the skin, I strongly recommend that you blow dry them until under coat is dry and fluffy. The normal bunny body temperature ranges from 101oF to 103oF. Considering rabbit skin is very delicate and rabbits are sensitive to heat, NEVER use a blow dryer on a setting higher then warm. Also constantly monitor of the air on your bunnies skin by placing your hand in its path.

MATS
Bunny skin is delicate and highly susceptible to cuts, so if your bunny gets a mat in his fur do not cut it off with scissors. Instead, use a mat splitter or mat rake to simply get rid of the knot. Unlike cats and dogs, bunny fur requires a much finer blade.

SKIN

Itchy, scratchy, flaky skin with bald patches are usually symptoms of mites OR more rarely an allergic reaction to having fleas. Products described under the description "FLEAS" will normally clear up this problem or go into your local pet shop and find something under mites or anything for skin. You should consult a veterinarian for such conditions as open sores or chronic skin inflammation.

SCENT GLANDS 
Rabbits have scent glands under their chin (they use this to to mark items including people when they chin things!) and around their anus.  When the anus glands build up, the rabbit usually has an unpleasant odor. 
It is very easy to clean them, however. You simply dip a Q-tip into some Vaseline and hold your rabbit in a comfortable, safe position that gives you access to the genitals. if you can hypnotize your rabbit SAFELY, this is a good way to go. All you do is locate the two slits either side of the genitals. Use the Q-tip to swab away the brown buildup. It will take 2 seconds and you will be done!

FEET
Bunnies who live in the house and spend their time inside on carpet and other soft flooring's will generally need to have their toenails clipped  just like dogs and cats. 

From the risk of infection, declawing is definitely NOT recommended for your bun.

If your bunny excessively digs and claws and it is becoming a problem, then a large box of hay or straw where your bunny can dig should help this problem.

If the fur on your bun's feet for any reason is worn down, exposing inflamed or callused skin, then soft dry resting pads (rugs) should be provided. Exposed skin on the feet that becomes urine burned or broken is very likely to infect. Take lots of care that rugs and litter box's are kept clean and dry
EARS 

Ear wax can be removed with a cotton swab, as long as you take care not to push on the wax canal. You could also try a mild ear cleaner containing Chlorhexadine, such as Nolvasan Otic. For ear mite infestation, apply a topical medication. 


TEETH

Your buns teeth will grow continuously and if they grow to long without being cut shorter or ground  down, will make your rabbits teeth feel uncomfortable. They must also be checked that they are wearing down properly. Whilst you brush your rabbit or are clipping his nails, take a glance at their teeth to make sure there is no problem.


Bunnies who have straight teeth, will keep them worn down with everyday gnawing and chewing. Buns with crooked teeth, will need to have their teeth kept trimmed with guillotine-type clippers. If this occurs and is left untreated, the rabbit will not be capable of eating and may starve to death. Your veterinarian can show you how to clip a rabbits teeth or they can clip them for you if that is something you are uncomfortable with doing yourself.


NAILS


Bunnies nails can grow to be very long and sharp and will be uncomfortable for the rabbit. If the rabbit has light colored nails they will be quite easy to trim . You can easily see the blood inside the nail and you clip just before that point. The dark colored nails are harder to see where they should be clipped but this is still visible.


Some people are often afraid to clip nails for fear that they will cause the rabbit to bleed.If you are one of these people, DON'T PANIC!  You can purchase a product called Kwik Stop to keep on hand if this ever occurs, but I've found that just holding pressure with a cotton ball will work just as good. Your veterinarian will also clip nails for you if you are uncomfortable with that. They're nails should be checked every 6-8 weeks.


EYES

Watery eyes or and eye discharge needs to be diagnosed by your veterinarian. In addition to any medications or eye drops, the cheek needs to be kept dry and clean so the area will not become chafed or the fur peeling. A few clean tissues will absorb mild wetness. A touch of prescription anesthetic powder on a finger can be applied to the area if there are painful lesions.

Here are some bunny products which I thought you may like. Have a look if your interested!

Thursday, 8 December 2011

Newborn Rabbits

Newborn rabbits can be quite a handful, especially if it is the first time that you are looking after them. Follow these tips on newborn rabbits so you know how to care for them.

1)  You may find that the mother of the litter after they are born won't stay in their nest. This is so predators can't find them as easily. The only time that she will be in the nest is when it is feeding time.

2)  Normally, the mother will nurse her young the night after them being born. Seeing as the milk is very rich for the litter, they will only be fed once every 24 hours. This is usually between midnight and 5 am. 

3)  She will only stand over her nest to feed her newborn rabbits. She does clean each one by licking them though.

4)  If you aren't to sure that these babies are getting the proper care they need, check them quite early in the morning. If they feel warm and have round, full looking bellies then you can be assured that they are being looked after. You can always check that they are gaining weight by weighing them on the kitchen scales everyday.

5)  An odd thing is that you can handle your bunnies litter even if they don't know the person holding them. This is because domestic bunnies are not concerned about all the human smells on them.

6)  If you neuter your male bunny, he can remain with his family. He will act very playful with the  male half of the litter as they start to reach the puberty stage in their life. This means it is time for them to be separated. The male bunny needs to be neutered before going back with his mother because you probably will end up with another litter if you don't. After they are neutered they need to be kept separate for a minimum of 2 weeks. This is because they would pull out each others stitches.

Here are some bunny products which I thought you may like. Have a look if your interested!



They were some tips if your female bunny was going to have some newborn rabbits for the first time. If you have any questions, contact me.

Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Rabbit Toys

Rabbit toys are a big part of your bunnies life. If you don't provide them with any they could die of boredom and if they are in your house, might chew household objects. If you give your bunny some rabbit toys, they will most likely stop chewing your furniture.


Mental Stimulation...........
Without your bunny having anything challenging to do, they will become bored epically if they have no non-human friends to keep them company. This isolation can often lead to depression and/or destructiveness. This includes injured (disabled) and old bunnies that need a nice environment where they can do more then eat and sleep. 

Physical Exercise.............
 You need to provide your bunny with safe activities to keep their mind and body in shape. These can be things to climb on, crawl under, hop on, dig into and chew on. Without any of these, they will become fat and possibly depressed. This is why they might start chewing your furniture. My bunnies enjoy to freely hop around the garden nibbling at the grass. The only problem with that is you need to make sure that there is no escape routes in the garden.


How to Choose Rabbit Toys...............
From all bunnies being different, they will all like and dislike different things. They will also use the rabbit toys differently then each other such as one of them might nudge a ball and another will chuck  it around. Some rabbit toys are more complex then others which makes the costs vary. But overall your bunny won't mind what rabbit toys you give them. Just make sure you give them something! As long as they enjoy the rabbit toys you give them, then they should be happy. They are usually only interested in an activity that will occupy them and their mind for a long time. It is a good idea to give  your bunny a variety of rabbit toys so they stay occupied and don't get bored of playing with the same rabbit toys everyday. 

When you provide your bunnies with these objects, it doesn't mean that you can leave them alone for 8 hours without supervision if you go out for the day. You might come home and your house is almost turned upside down. You shouldn't give them to much freedom at an early age. You can make a schedule when you give your rabbit a small amount of freedom and in that time you can build trust and learn their ways. When they start aging and have been spayed or neutered, you may find that they are more behaved and you can give them more freedom but make sure you don't give them too much!

Here are some rabbit products which I thought that you may like. Have a look if your interested!
 

Here are some pictures of me with my bunny. This can help you come up with ideas of what to do with your bun!

Tuesday, 6 December 2011

Rabbit Lifespan

How long is a rabbits lifespan is a general question that most people ask. This usually depends on the breed. Here is all different breeds and the average age they live till:

Angora- 5+ years

Belgian Hare- 5+ years

British Giant-5+ years but generally shorter life span

Dutch- 5-8 years

English-5+ years

Flemish-5+ years

Fox-5-10 years

Harlequin-5+ years

Havana-5-8 years

Himalayan-8+ years

Lionhead- 7-9 years

Lop-5+ years

Netherland Dwarf-7+ years

New Zealand- 5-6 years

Polish-7-10 years

Rex-5-11 years

Satin-8-10 years

Silver-8+ years around

Tan-8-10 years




Overall the average rabbits lifespan is on average 12-15 years old. If you don't know what breed your bunny is, use this average age. 

If you have had a bunny and it has not lived for that long, this could have been from boredom, not the right diet, or anything else relating to your bunny. Make sure to give your bunny the best food you can find as well as the proper exercise and mental stimulation.This will help to keep them living longer. If they gain any weight and get fat, this will shorten their life span as well.
If you have any concerns please contact me.

Here are some rabbit products which I thought you may like. Have a look if your interested!
 

Monday, 5 December 2011

Hairballs in Rabbits

Hairballs in rabbits can become very dangerous and possibly lead to death if not treated when first spotted. This is more likely to happen in malting season as this is when they are loosing more fur and cleaning themselves more frequently which means that they are more likely to digest lots of fur causing what is also known as a fur ball. This is quite a rare condition in domestic bunnies yet there is still a risk.

They may become dehydrated so you have to be aware of this as well as this could lead to death from becoming dehydrated. Make sure they always have access to lots of fresh water everyday.

The domestic bunnies which are kept indoors are at more of a risk as they are in a 'warm house which the heat can cause them to malt more then ones which are outside. If you do keep your bunny indoors, remember to groom them everyday (especially if they are long haired which should be groomed everyday anyways) but if they are outdoor you won't have to groom them that much in the winter but you will have to everyday in the summer.

When your bunny malts, it starts at the top of the forehead and goes right down the body and can sometimes last up to several weeks and they can appear malting continuously. They will malt twice a year, but if they are indoors it can be quite a few years.


Symptoms - The symptoms for hairballs in rabbits includes:

Smaller or fewer droppings, droppings which contain quite a bit of hair and your bunny is unwillingly to move around freely.


Treatment/Prevention - They will need lots of fiber in their diet so make sure that lots is available at ALL times. This will help keep your bunnies digestive system moving. You should make sure that you brush them AT LEAST once a day to get rid of the molting hair so they won't digest it. If you think your bunnies digestive system is slowing, make sure that you take them to the vets immediately as this could lead to gut stasis.

I hope this post helps you to know more about hairballs in rabbits and that you now have a better understanding. Here are some bunny products which I thought you may like! take a look if you are interested:

Sunday, 4 December 2011

Rabbit Water Bottles

Rabbit water bottles are quite important. If you have an outdoor bunny, in the winter they will freeze so you need to thaw them out and in the summer, this will overheat so you will need to give them some nice cold, clean aqua. Like anything else, they need to have some liquid in them.

In the summer time, these containers will get algae forming on the inside. This is from the suns light beaming onto the water bottles. It is very simple to clean. All you have to do is use a bottle brush. This is also known as a baby bottle brush.

Before cleaning the container:

During cleaning:

After cleaning:

Algae isn't bad for your rabbit to have in the bottle, but-like any animals including humans- much prefers to drink nice, fresh, clean aqua.

In the winter time, the bottles will freeze which prevents them to drink. This is also very simple to sort out. You just rinse it out with hot water until all of the ice has gone, then you fill it up with mild water. I hope this post helps! If you are interested take a look at the bunny products below:


Saturday, 3 December 2011

Fly strike in Rabbits

Fly strike in rabbits is something which they could all catch and can become very fatal. This happens when your bunnies hutch may not be particularly 'clean' which attracts flies. They will then lay eggs in your bunnies fur (usually around their bottom) and mature into maggots and eat their flesh. With some flies, this can happen in under 24 hours and is more likely to occur in warmer months.

Some things like obesity, sticky or dirty bottom, long hair, diarrhea, unhygienic living conditions and runny eyes can make your bunny more at risk. Make sure to check all of these regularly to make sure your bunny has none. If you spot any maggots on your bunny, make sure to visit your vet as soon as possible. Your bunny can become very ill, very quickly. This does look very awful yet can be quite a common disease. read below for more useful information about fly strike in rabbits.


Symptoms - The symptoms for fly strike in rabbits are:

bunny is quiet or no energy/ enthusiasm, as well as bunny moving very uncomfortable or seems to be quite restless.


Prevention/Treatment - Make sure to check your bunny at least once a day so that you can make sure there are no signs for this illness. Make sure that you are keeping their cage/hutch clean and free of flies. make sure to scoop any waste out daily in hotter weather and if you think necessary hang up some fly strips around or in their living quarters out of 'chewing distance' for them.

If you did see any signs, make sure (as mentioned above) that you do take your little bunny to the vets immediately for the safety of them. If you did see any maggots on them, grab a pair of tweezers and pick them off of them as this will help them. This is something that is quite difficult to treat and your bunny will be on anti-biotics, but there is a high chance that they won't survive.

Here are some products which you may be interested in. If you are, click the pictures below! For the safety of your bunny, keep them for being obese, and keep their hutch clean and tidy! I hope this post helps you to have a better understanding of fly strike in rabbits.
Self Clean Litter Tray

Friday, 2 December 2011

Coccidiosis in Rabbits

Coccidiosis in rabbits is a disease not only bunnies but other animals as well. This usually is a common disease among dogs as well as bunnies. There is nine species of this disease and 1 effect the liver whilst the other 8 are caused in the intestine. Younger bunnies are at more of a risk and most likely to be badly infected.

This can be spread by a bunny eat the eggs of the parasite which have been excreted by another bunny that is infected. These can remain active for over a year. This is normally from them eating vegetables or grass which a wild bunny that is infected has touched/excreted on. Adult bunnies can often be passive carriers and show no symptoms. If you are thinking about putting in any baby bunny in with an older one, you may want to check if they have any diseases first.

 Symptoms - The symptoms of coccidiosis in rabbits are: 

diarrhea, rapid/very quick wieght loss, a bloated stomach, a rough coat and tremors.

Prevention/ Treatment - If you have an infected bunny, make sure that you keep them isolated (on their own) and their hutch very thoroughly cleaned out and kept clean. If this is caught at an early enough stage, it can be treated properly. Normally the stomach lining is permanently damaged and cannot be fixed which causes them not to be able to ingest nutrients. This can end up fatal so make sure that you know properly what to do.  

Here are some bunny product which I thought you may like! Click the pictures below for more information!

I hope that this post about coccidiosis in rabbits was useful to you so you now have a better understanding!